Monday, August 9, 2021

Johnnycakes (Cornmeal almond pancakes)

 I made these a couple of years ago and thought they were the best pancakes I ever made. If you know me you know I had a traumatic pancake experience as a kid (ate too many, to be polite, if all things), and I avoid cakey flapjacks (and muffins, for that matter) like the plague.

These are yummy and slightly crispy and dense and delicious, in their own or with syrup or (my favorite) a little drizzle of honey.

I made it dairy-Kaiden instead of vegan this time and I’m glad I did. Whole milk instead of almond, melted butter instead of coconut oil, etc. But still fried in coconut oil for cooking.

Almond Cornmeal Pancakes aka Johnnycakes

Serves 2-3 people

Ingredients

  • 1 cup almond meal

  • 1 cup yellow cornmeal (I used fine, could also use half coarse as half)

  • 1 tsp baking soda

  • 1/2 tsp sea salt

  • 1 egg

  • 1 1/4 cup (almond) milk

  • 3 tbsp agave (or maple syrup)=4 Tbsp sugar

  • 2 tbsp melted coconut oil (or butter) + more for frying

  • Maple syrup, honey, agave, and almond butter -- to serve

Method

  1. Heat skillet or griddle to 300'F. Coat with coconut oil.

  2. In a large bowl, combine almond meal, cornmeal, baking soda, & salt. Add almond milk, egg, agave, and coconut oil and stir until a thick batter forms. Spoon batter onto your griddle -- mine were about 3 to 4 inches each. When bubbles begin to form and pop in the center of the cakes, flip. Cook 2 minutes more or until golden brown on each side and the center is fully cooked.

  3. Serve with almond butter or ghee and your favorite syrup.

Friday, April 16, 2021

Fennel gratin

So amazing. I have done a version with zucchini coins—also amazing and easy.

From the WashPo:

‘These crisped, salty and savory slices of fennel make a terrific and unusual hors d'oeuvres. Originally developed as a side dish featured in chef-restaurateur Marc Vetri's 2011 "Rustic Italian Food," it is served today as a "welcome" at Vetri.’

Serve warm or at room temperature. Make Ahead: The gratins can be made an hour in advance.

Tested size: 4-6 servings

INGREDIENTS
  • 2 large or 3 to 4 small fennel bulbs, fronds reserved for garnish (about 2 pounds total)
  • About 1 1/4 cups olive oil 
    [this seems like an insane amount, but essentially fries them. I have used half this much—still great.]
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have a rimmed baking sheet or large, shallow baking dish at hand.

Trim off and discard the bottom and tough outer layer of each fennel bulb. Cut each bulb in half from top to bottom, then cut each half into 4 equal wedges, keeping the core intact; that will help hold the wedges together.

Pour enough oil to generously cover the bottom of the baking sheet or baking dish, then add the fennel wedges. You'll want to position them so their surfaces can hold the seasonings and cheese.

Sprinkle each wedge lightly with salt, pepper and the crushed red pepper flakes. Top each one with the cheese. Bake for about 30 minutes or until the fennel is tender enough to be easily pierced with a fork and the cheese is golden brown. Let cool (in the baking sheet or baking dish) until barely warm.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer to individual plates or a platter. Garnish with fronds and serve right away.

Thursday, October 22, 2020

(Pie Lady–Like) Bran Muffins

I've been craving the Pie Lady's blueberry bran muffins—best muffin I've ever had—and not sure how she gets hers so dark and rich. I suspect she uses lard in all of her baked goods. I tried to make this recipe even richer, and they came out great—especially if you smother them in unsalted butter. I'm amazed, because I'm an amateur baker and as you'll see below, all of the subsititions made the dough wetter, fattier, and richer.

I skipped puree-ing of the softened raisins into the batter, but I'll bet that's part of why the Pie Lady muffins are so dark and rich. Will bother with that step next time. This time I just softened them in some boiling water, and replaced half of what it calls for with diced prunes, which I also think help with the richness.

I'm guessing the Pie Pady puts brown (demarara?) sugar on the top to get that caramelized sweetness. I'll do that next time, too. Next up: her corn muffins. Which are golden brown.

For Elizabeth Rooney, who always loved with muffins.

Makes 12
Adapted from Pastries from La Brea Bakery by Nancy Silverton by David Lobovitz.

2 cup (125g) wheat bran   [I used All Bran cereal]
1 cup plus 1/2 cup (190g total) dark raisins       [I used 3/4 cup raisins and 1/2 cup diced prunes]
1 cup plus 1/2 cup (370ml total) water
1/2 cup (120g) buttermilk or plain low- or non-fat yogurt   [I used whole fat greek]
a few swipes of fresh orange zest, unsprayed   [I skipped this]
1/2 cup (105g) packed light brown sugar      [I used dark]
1/2 cup (125ml) vegetable oil     [I used coconut oil]
1 large egg
1 large egg white      [I used the yolk too]
1/2 cup (65g) flour
1/4 cup (35g) whole wheat flour  [I used all white]
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
[I added] 1/4 cup Molasses
1. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Line a 12-cup muffin tin (with 1/2-cup indentations) with paper liners.
2. Spread the wheat bran on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for six to eight minutes, stirring a few times so it cooks evenly. Let cool.
3. While the bran is toasting, heat 1 cup (135g) of the raisins with 1/2 cup (120ml) of the water. Simmer for ten minutes, or until the water is all absorbed. Puree the raisins in a food processor or blender until smooth.
4. In a large bowl, mix together the toasted bran, buttermilk or yogurt, 1 cup (250ml) water, then mix in the raisin puree, orange zest, and brown sugar.
5. Stir in the oil, egg and egg white.
6. Mix together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and sift directly into the wet ingredients. Stir until the ingredients are just combined, then mix in the remaining 1/2 cup (55g) raisins.
7. Spoon the batter into the muffin tins, making sure the batter is mounded slightly in each one. Because muffin tins can very in size, if your tins are larger, make fewer muffins.
8. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the muffins feel set in the center.

 

Monday, November 21, 2016

Pasta with Sausage and Pumpkin Sauce




I started making this in 2000, when I heard Stellino on NPR's The World. Since then I made it at least once a year, including for a party to watch the Red Sox play in the World Series--was that 2004? Always a favorite. I use Asiago to grate over it, rotini pasta, and leave out pumpkin seeds. This year I'm trying it with fresh pumpkin. Will report back.

Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
  • 1¼ cups white wine
  • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1¼ cups pumpkin puree
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 1 pound pasta - penne, rigatoni - choose your favorite shape
  • 6 tablespoons Parmesan cheese - optional
  • toasted pumpkin seeds, optional

Instructions
  1. In a large skillet pour one tablespoon of olive oil and cook over high heat for a minute or so. Remove the sausage from its casing and add to the hot oil. Using the back of a spoon break of the sausage as it cooks until fully browned. Remove sausage with a slotted spoon to a bowl and set aside. Keep one tablespoon of the fat in the pan and discard the rest.
  2. Add the remaining three tablespoons of oil to the skillet and cook over medium heat for three minutes. Add the onion, garlic and chopped sage, cook for roughly 10 minutes, stirring well until the onion and garlic begin to brown.
  3. Add the reserved sausage and cook for two more minutes, stirring well. Add the wine and deglaze (scraping up the really flavorful brown bits from the bottom of the pan) the pan. Cook for another 5 to 8 minutes, stirring well. The wine will begin to evaporate. Add the pumpkin puree and cook for another minute or two, stirring well.
  4. Add the chicken stock and cinnamon, bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce and simmer for about 30 minutes. You're looking for a nice thick & saucy consistency.
  5. While the sauce is cooking, boil the pasta. Drain and pour the pumpkin sauce over the pasta in the cooking pot and stir for two or three minutes.
  6. Garnish each bowl with optional cheese and toasted pumpkin seeds.
  7. Serves 6-8

Monday, December 31, 2012

Pamplona's shrimp pil pil

I was craving this dish recently, from the great tapas restaurant Pamplona that used to be in Philly's Wash West neighborhood. Amazingly I found the recipe online (from 1997), but while I was looking I found another that was intriguing. I've combined them here. (This looks like an interesting variation.)
Makes 4 to 6 tapas or appetizer servings.

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
1 lb. (approx. 12) large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup flour
4 cups cold water
4 cloves garlic, whole 
3 tablespoons olive oil, virgin Spanish preferred
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon ground paprika.  
1/2 teaspoon crushed chile piquin (I used chili powder)
2 tablespoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon Pastine (a brand of finely chopped chile peppers in vinegar, pickled jalapenos may be substituted)
2 tablespoons lime juice, fresh preferred
Kosher salt to taste
2 teaspoons coarsely chopped Italian parsley
Preheat a large saute pan over medium high heat. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, stir the salt into water until it has dissolved. soak the shrimp in the cold water for 5 minutes. Drain the shrimp and pat them dry. Roll in flour until well coated, shaking off excess flour.
Add the oil to the hot pan with the whole garlic and allow the oil to get hot but not smoking. Carefully place the shrimp in the pan in a single layer. Cook till golden on both sides, about 3 minutes.

Discard the whole garlic and remove the shrimp. Add the minced garlic and let it cook until its perfume is released, about 1 minute. Add the remaining ingredients, and deglaze the pan. Then return the browned shrimp, and cook 1 minute longer or until shrimp are firm and dry. Serve immediately.

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Cuban-style braised tuna

I made this with my friend Sacha once when she was housesitting and we both dug it. I think braised anything is amazing--so moist and flavorful, but the intensity of the flavors in this dish are just the best. We used Chilean sea bass that first time, but I think any hearty fish would be great.

I used the leftovers to make Fish chowder with coconut milk, which was a total success, too.

From The White Dog Cookbook


1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 cups thinly sliced white onions

2 tablespoons minced garlic

4 cups roughly chopped fresh plum tomatoes [canned is fine, too]

1/4 cup drained capers, rinsed and squeezed dry

2/3 cup sliced pimento-stuffed green olives [I've done it with black oil cured, too]

Pinch of hot red pepper flakes

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

4 yellow fin tuna steaks (about 6 ounces each)

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1/4 cup slivered almonds, toasted.


1. Heat the oil in a large, nonreactive saute pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until soft, about four minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Add the tomatoes and saute until they begin to soften, about three minutes. Add the capers, olives, pepper flakes, and wine; bring to a simmer.
2. Add the tuna steaks to the sauce. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the tuna is completely cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes, depending upon the thickness of the steaks.
3. Remove the tuna and keep warm. If the sauce looks too loose, increase the heat and simmer until it reduces to the desired consistency. Stir in the cilantro. Top the fish with the warm sauce; sprinkle with the toasted almonds

Fish chowder with coconut milk


I was looking for a way to use up some braised Cuban tuna I had in the freezer (courtesy the White Dog Cookbook), and this was the perfect solution. Was in the mood for chowder, but wanted to try something dairy free. If I'd had some lemongrass I would have added that, too. Lots of flavor. For fish stock I just used benito flakes you use to make miso soup. Used sweet potato in place of yukon. I also doubled the amount of coconut milk, 'cause I like me my fats.

From Cybele Pascal, who does a lot of allergy-free cooking
http://cybelepascal.com/gluten-free-dairy-free-soy-free-fish-chowder/#

Makes 8 Servings

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced fine
3 large stalks celery, with leaves, chopped
3 carrots, chopped
big pinch of dried thyme  [I used a few sprigs fresh]
2 teaspoons parsley flakes [I used a few tablespoons of fresh]
2 bay leaves
pinch of cayenne pepper
1 cup dry white wine
1 large Yukon Gold potato, skin on, diced into 1/2-inch cubes [I used sweet potato]
2 ear of fresh corn [I left this out]
8 peppercorns
8 cups fish stock (Kitchen Basics “Seafood Stock” is Shellfish-Free and Gluten-Free; see their allergen-statement)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground pepper
1/2 red bell pepper, diced [I left this out]
2-3 cups leftover cooked Cod Fish, and/or Haddock, and/or Flounder, flaked or cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 cup coconut milk, or rice milk (or heavy cream)
pinch of saffron

1. Heat olive oil in large pot over medium heat. Add diced onions and garlic, and cook, stirring often, about 3 minutes, until onions have softened a bit. Add celery and carrots, cooking a few minutes more, until starting to soften. Add thyme, parsley, bay leaves, cayenne, and cook stirring until aromatic, about 2 minutes.

2. Increase heat to medium-high heat, and add white wine. Cook stirring, about 3 minutes, until reduced slightly. Add cubed potato, stirring to combine. Cut corn kernels off of cobs and add to pot. Add peppercorns. Cover all with fish stock, add salt, and few grindings of fresh pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Crumble in the saffron. Cook at a simmer, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes, until potato is softened. Add bell pepper, and fish, stirring gently to combine. Simmer about 15 minutes, until bell pepper is tender. Taste broth, and adjust salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper, to taste.

3. Add coconut milk (or rice milk, or heavy cream), and heat through until piping hot, without letting it boil. Ladle into bowls. This soup is even more delicious day two, so don’t fret the leftovers.